Florence Vacations

Sightseeing in Florence is easy: everything that you'll want to see is concentrated in the relatively small historic center of the city. But there is so much packed into the area that you may find yourself slogging from one mind-boggling sight to another and feeling overwhelmed. If you are not an inveterate museum enthusiast, take it easy. Don't try to absorb every painting or fresco that comes into view. There's second-rate art even in the Galleria degli Uffizi and the Palazzo Pitti (especially the Pitti), so find some favorites and enjoy them at your leisure.

Walking through the streets and alleyways in Florence is a discovery in itself, but to save time and energy, make use of the efficient bus system. Buses also provide the least-fatiguing way to reach Piazzale Michelangelo, San Miniato, and the Forte di Belvedere. It's easy to make excursions to, say, Fiesole or the Medici villas by city bus. Most churches are open from 8 or 9 until noon or 12:30 and from 3 or 4 until about 6. The Duomo has continuous hours.

During the 12th and 13th centuries, Florence, like most other Italian towns, was a forest of towers -- more than 200 of them, if the smaller three- and four-story towers are included. Today only a handful survive, but if you look closely you'll find them as you explore the centro storico.

The main tourist season runs from April to mid-October. For serious sightseers the best months are from fall to early spring. The so-called low season may be cooler and inevitably rainier, but it has its rewards: less time waiting in line and more time to enjoy closer-up, unhurried views of what you want to see.

Tourists crowd the major art cities at Easter, when Italians flock to resorts and to the country. From March through May, busloads of eager schoolchildren on excursions take cities of artistic and historical interest by storm.

Weatherwise, the best months for sightseeing are April, May, June, September, and October -- generally pleasant and not too hot. The hottest months are July and August, when humidity can make things unpleasant. Winters are relatively mild in most places on the main tourist circuit but always include some rainy spells. In general, the northern half of the peninsula and the entire Adriatic Coast, with the exception of Apulia, are rainier than the rest of Italy.

Florence is justifiably famous for its musical offerings, as its annual Maggio Musicale attracts the best international talent; theaters also host visiting American rock stars and cabaret perfomers. Major traveling art exhibitions are mounted at Palazzo Strozzi and Forte Belvedere throughout the year.

Florentines are rather proud of their nightlife scene. Most bars have some sort of happy hour, which usually lasts for many hours, often accompanied by substantial snacks. Dance clubs typically don't open until very late in the evening and don't get crowded until 1 or 2 in the morning. Cover charges are steep, but it's fairly easy to find free passes around town.

Window-shopping in Florence is like visiting an enormous contemporary art gallery, for many of today's greatest Italian artists are fashion designers, and most keep shops in Florence. Shops are generally open 9-1 and 3:30-7:30 and are closed Sunday and Monday morning most of the year. Summer (June-September) hours are usually 9-1 and 4-8, and some shops close Saturday afternoon instead of Monday morning. When looking for addresses of shops, you will see two color-coded numbering systems on each street. The red numbers are commercial addresses and are indicated, for example, as 31/r. The blue or black numbers are residential addresses. Most shops take major credit cards and will ship purchases, but because of possible delays it's wise to take your purchases with you.

Dining hours are earlier here than in Rome, starting at 1 for the midday meal and at 8 for dinner. Many of Florence's restaurants are small, so reservations are a must. You can sample such specialties as creamy fegatini (a chicken-liver spread), and ribollita (minestrone thickened with bread and beans and swirled with extra-virgin olive oil) in bustling, convivial trattorias where you typically share long wooden tables set with paper place mats, or in an upscale ristorante with linen tablecloths and napkins. Follow the lead of the locals and take a break at an enoteca (wineshop or wine bar) and sample some of the excellent Chiantis and Super Tuscans.

Florence's luxury hotels are located in the heart of the city. Many hotels can be found bordering canals and are within proximity to many attractions.

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